Guides & AdviceUsing the AssistantTraining With a Niggle or Injury

Training With a Niggle or Injury

Climbers train through small aches all the time, and it’s easy to get it wrong. The assistant can help you adjust your plan around a niggle, but it is not a medical professional. This guide explains what it will help with and where it stops.

⚠️

The assistant can’t diagnose an injury, prescribe rehab or tell you whether it’s safe to train. If you’re injured or unwell, check with a physio, doctor or other health professional before training.

What the Assistant Does

If you mention pain, the assistant won’t quietly reshape your plan around it. It says what it would be careful about and asks how you’d like to handle it. If what you describe sounds like more than a tweak, it suggests seeing a professional.

Once you know what you’re dealing with, it can make the changes you ask for. For example, if a physio has told you to rest your fingers for two weeks:

My physio says no hangboarding or hard crimping for two weeks. Replace those sessions with something from my library that doesn’t load my fingers.

The proposal shows each session it would remove or replace. Check it as you would any other, and click Adjust if it isn’t right.

Record It So It Lasts

There are two ways to keep the assistant aware of an injury beyond one conversation:

  • Add an Injury Recovery event for the dates it affects. The assistant reads upcoming events when it plans, and can add one for you if you ask.
  • Tell it as a lasting fact, such as “I have an ongoing left shoulder issue and avoid steep overhangs”. It can save that as a memory. Delete the memory in Settings → Assistant once you’ve recovered.

Notes about how sessions felt help too. The assistant reads your recent notes, so writing “left ring finger sore after the board” gives it context next time.

What Gets Sent

Injury details in your notes, events and memories are health information. When you agree to the assistant’s notice, you consent to that being sent to its AI provider when a reply needs it. You can withdraw consent at any time in Settings → Assistant. See Privacy and Consent.

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