Guides & AdviceTrack Finger Strength

Track Finger Strength

Finger strength is one of the few things climbers can measure with a number, and one of the easiest to track badly. If you change the edge, the grip or the protocol, last month’s results no longer compare. This guide sets up a test you can repeat, then shows how to follow your progress between tests.

Sequence gives you two places to record it:

  • A test is a benchmark you repeat every few weeks under the same conditions. It gives you a progress graph, personal bests and side-by-side comparisons.
  • An exercise in a workout records your hangs every session, so you can see your training load and your heaviest sets.

Most climbers use both.

Setting Up the Test

These steps are for the web. You can also create a test in the mobile app from More → Tests.

Create the test

Go to Tests and click New Test. Give it a name such as “Max Hang Assessment”. In Description, write down the protocol: the edge depth, the grip, and how long you hang. Anyone doing the test, including you in six months, can then repeat it exactly.

Add the fields

Add a field for each number you’ll record. For a max hang, that might be:

  • Added weight — Number, unit kg, Higher is better
  • Hang time — Number, unit seconds, Neither — show change only
  • Bodyweight — Number, unit kg, Neither — show change only

Setting Higher is better means Sequence tracks your personal best for that field. If you test both hands or more than one grip, add a number field for each, such as “Added weight — left” and “Added weight — right”, so each gets its own graph and personal best. A Select field only records the choice with the result.

Save

Click Create. Once a field has been used in a result, its type and unit are locked, so every result stays comparable.

Scheduling and Recording

Put the test on your planner so it doesn’t get skipped. Click the day, select Schedule test, and choose your test. A good habit is to test at the start and end of each training block, on a day when you’re fresh.

After the test, click it on the planner and record your result. In the mobile app, tap the scheduled test to record it. Every field is optional, so leave out anything you didn’t measure. If you beat your best, the result shows a Personal best label.

Reading Your Progress

Open the test from Tests to see its graph. If it has more than one number field, choose the one to plot from Measurement. Click any result, then the Compare tab, to set it against an earlier attempt. Improvements show in green.

When you hit a new best, click that day in the planner and add a milestone with Add milestone, so it shows on your planner and can appear on your graphs. If you have a goal such as “Hang +20 kg on the 20 mm edge”, link the milestone to it.

Tracking Every Session

For your hangboard sessions, add a weighted hang exercise to the workout. Create the exercise with the Duration + Weight category, so each set records Weight and Duration and you can use the set timer for the hold. Then Metrics → Exercises shows your Heaviest set and Longest set over time. See Exercises.

If you’d rather log a single number per session, a measure widget does that, and its graph is in Metrics → Custom Measures.

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